Desert Machine Knitters

June 16, 2009 Lesson #4
Chemo Turban July 2012
July 12, 2011 Furry Hat
June 28, 2011 2 more chemo hats and seaming!
June 26, 2011 Chemo Cap, Transfer Lace
June 4, 2011 Chemo Kerchief
June 29, 2011 Adjusting Brother/KnitKing Ribbers
March 2010 Lesson #8
Sept 1, 2009 Lesson #7
Sept 1, 2009 Lesson #6
June 30, 2009 Lesson #5
June 16, 2009 Lesson #4
June 1, 2009 Lesson #3
May 18, 2009 Lesson #2
May 6, 2009 Lesson #1
Yarn Cone Doll
Mar 30, 2006
March 2, 2006
February 16, 2006
February 2, 2006
January 19, 2006
January 5, 2006
Jan 23, 2008 Beanies and Chemo Caps
Nov 17, 2005
Dec 1, 2005
Dec 15, 2005


This is the method of doing the tension swatch we will be doing this time:

This is another menthod of doing the swatch and since I'm endevouring to give you as many different ways of doing it as possible, here is another way!!! This was given to me by Carole Struthers


Hi Gladys,

I think the best way of making a swatch is as follows. I start out with waste yarn and knit a few rows. Then on the right hand side of the machine, I empty every other needle onto it's neighbor for every stitch tension I'm going to use leaving the empty needles in working position. If I've used an extra notch on the tension mast, I skip a couple spaces from where I've marked the tension and make a hole for every notch I've changed to on the tension mast. On the Left hand side, I make holes for the number of rows I've used 1 hole for every 10 rows. (I may leave these for a week or so and that way I don't forget what the tension was being used.) Using this system and always, always in the same order gives me everything I need to know... Over on the left hand side I do the same for every ten stitches telling me how many stitches I've used for this swatch. I.e.: right hand side 7 holes =tension 7 while on the left side 4 holes= 40 stitches.

I then knit up to row 30 and tag a marker of bright yarn over the 11th needle on each side of 0 for bulky,20 sts to measure between and 21 on each side for 40 stitches to use as the measuring number for the guage.

Once done, I go on up to row 60 but a lesser number is okay as long as you mark what it is. I then knit a few rows of waste yarn again and on the left hand side I put in holes for every 10 rows I've knit in the swatch. I.e.: 60 rows, 6 holes.

If I'm using a tuck or fairisle, I might measure from edge to edge three places and then average them out to get gauge.

I also make a little cardboard tag with a snip of the yarn and tie it into one of the holes I've punched in the card. I put the name of the yarn, the tension I knitted it at and the gauge I got when swatching it. (You know how we hate to make swatches.) I've got a bunch hanging on the wall over my machine so if I ever use that yarn again, I've got a good starting point. Works 4 me!

Carole Struthers













We will be casting on doing a figure 8 e-wrap. I'm including a diagram....its really easy once you try it.

Figure 8 e-wrap:

This one makes an 8 laying on its side around the needles



Come up between 2&3, go over the top of 2 and under 1, go back over 1 and

down between 1&2, go under 2&3, up between 3&4, down between 2&3, up

between 1&2, over the top of 2, under 3&4, over the top of 4 under 3, over the


of 3, under 4&5, over the top of 5, under 4, back over the top of 4, under

5&6, etc.

Slightly different look to the edge, sort of a braided look.



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The pattern Technique we will do this time is

2-Color Tuck

Please refer to your manual for all the information on how to do this.

You might not be able to do this with a manual machine, but please check the manual thoroughly, there are surprises!!

Also, use the above technique for marking the swatch etc.


We will do the Back Stitch Bind-off. This time we will do it from R to L.


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